Placing designs on objects with the camera works well.
The heart object below is all of 3/4 inches wide.
I used Brilliance spray on aluminum.
From the LightBurn screen, the design was placed on the camera image.
The laser scan was Brilliance sprayed over an aluminum blank.
After a quick wipe, the stark etch was plainly visible and rock solid.
My wife was pleased at my choice of messages. 
Happy to hear your wife approved. Who’s Beth? 
Ok, not only did you post this recently but I had posted in Nov 2019 how to get the camera setup working in Lightburn on Linux and today got a thank-you for posting that. Coincidents happen so I needed to actually finish the setup and see how this works. Having the Ortur on the tabletop next to me, a USB camera and a yardstick to clip it to holding it over the Ortur…
Voila! It does work and make alignment even easier than the 6(?) step process I posted earlier using the origin change, selection centering and framing.
Since you all like pictures! The design is not burned on the blank ornament, that’s the design in LightBurn positioned over the blank ornament already cutout with my 40W laser. -
I also had no idea how to use the feature so I found Oz’s youtube demo and figured it all out from there. Like how that dialog also lets me scale the camera image AND shift it around so to calibrate for far more exact alignment. I now have that Die Hard ornament centered to within 1mm. 
We DO like pictures! 
It is worth sharing what we’ve come to appreciate about stability. I use the camera attached to my laser’s lid and in the open or up position. It’s from that perch that all the calibrating is done. As my laser’s lid isn’t rock-solid, if I’m not careful it can be shifted slightly in some direction and thereby throw off the calibration. The camera needs to be in the same location each time it’s used for the positioning to be accurate.
For now I’m just really careful but I’d be better off if I stabilized my laser lid movement.
